2015 Application Season is Open!

Time to apply!

The 2015 award season is here. All cheesemongers are welcome! If you are a cheesemonger or love a cheesemonger we’re talking to you. All you need is a vision for learning and teaching about your craft.

Apply by May 31, 2015 for the $5,000 award to travel abroad and learn about cheese. Find out more and get an application packet here.

 

What about last year’s winner?

Emily Shartin is going to England, France and Holland this spring to learn affinage hands-on with her $5,000 award. She’ll return to teach what she learned at the American Cheese Society Conference this summer in Providence.

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Donate now

Click here to donate.

We’re still fundraising for the endowment that funds the award. (We’ve raised over $180,000 of our $250,000 goal.)

Thanks for your support!

Mo Frechette
President
Daphne Zepos Teaching Award

DZTA Winner 2014

We are proud to introduce Emily Shartin as the 2014 recipient
of the Daphne Zepos Teaching Award!

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Emily Shartin worked as a newspaper reporter for the Boston Globe before a love of food lured her to cooking school. She’s worked as cheesemonger at Formaggio’s Kitchen in Boston and as a cheese ager at Barinaga Ranch in Marshall, California. She’s the chair of the Cheese Committee for the San Francisco Good Food Awards. She wholesales cheese for Tomales Bay Foods in Petaluma.

Read her full vision here:

Emily Shartin Vision for the Daphne Zepos Teaching Award

Secrets of the Maitre Fromager

I’m standing in a cool, damp, subterranean cheese cave in California, surrounded by racks of ripening wheels collected from cheesemakers across the state, and I’m thinking of two people: Henri Androuet and Daphne Zepos.

In the early 20th century, so the story goes, Androuet opened a shop in Paris and began stocking it with cheeses collected from across France. He eventually opened a cellar where he could look after and refine the wheels he sourced, ensuring that he was selling them at their peak of ripeness. It is a model that came to be replicated across the city and throughout the country.

Roughly 100 years later, Daphne wrote of a “shrinking craft” in Europe — that of fromagers like Androuet. At a time when the role of the cheesemonger was starting to gain an important foothold in the U.S. — thanks in large part to a domestic surge in the popularity of cheese — our French forebears, those we looked to for “influence and integrity,” were starting to lose ground.

It was this Old World-New World shift that I was thinking about when, after becoming the second recipient of the Daphne Zepos Teaching Award in 2014, I went to France to see first-hand what it means to be a cheesemonger/affineur in a country with such a storied history of cheese.

At the time, I had spent my career in cheese primarily on the sales side, first as a cheesemonger at a European-style shop in Massachusetts and later as a member of a wholesale distribution team in California. I loved the community that was developing around the cheese trade in the U.S., and I wanted to meet and learn from our French counterparts with the goal of strengthening and professionalizing the trade at home. I spent time in cheese shops and caves across France, working directly with cheese and with the people who had made it their life’s work to get that cheese from producer to consumer in peak condition.

I met people whose families have been working with cheese for years, whose talents have been formally recognized by the French government, and whose affinage and retail outfits have continued to grow with each generation. The lessons that I learned on how they have built their businesses and honed their skills in cheese care over the years have offered both invaluable inspiration and tangible guidance for cheesemongers in the U.S. They also helped me see how and why the industry had become endangered in France, how many small dairies and cheesemakers were finding it increasingly difficult to make ends meet, and the crucial role the cheesemonger/affineur can play in sourcing cheese and building business for producers.

I also was inspired by stories like that of Claire Griffon, a young woman who had worked for a handful of famed Paris cheesemongers and later opened her own lovely shop and cave not far from the Eiffel Tower. I learned from her that even in a country where many businesses have existed for years, and where the future of the industry may still be uncertain, there was still room for a young person to start something new.

I brought these lessons home, and helped retailers and distributors find ways of building affinage and cheese care into their businesses. That brings me back to this cave I’m standing in — while a handful of shops on the east coast already had their own caves when I went to France, this is one of the first in California that is sourcing and caring for wheels from a variety of producers in an effort to bring cheese to the customer in prime condition, just as Androuet did. Based on the lessons from abroad, we are following in Daphne’s footsteps and finding more ways to build the role of the fromager at home.

When I went to France, American artisans were making more and more cheese every year — between 2010 and 2013 alone the number of entries into the American Cheese Society competition grew from 1,400 to almost 1,800, and it has only continued to grow since. My travels ultimately helped to build a network of professionals who can expertly care for this expanding collection of cheeses, essentially shepherding them from producer to consumer and helping to ensure the future of America’s cheese culture.

ACS 2014 ES with check

ACS 2014 and Jess Perrie

Jess Perrie Photo Shoot #11

2013’s DZTA winner is presenting this summer at the American Cheese Society Conference.

THE SHEPHERD’S STORY
A BASQUE COUNTRY CHEESEMAKING JOURNEY

Jess Perrie
Beehive Cheese Company

Shepherd (n): To protect, guide, or carefully watch over.

Join Jess Perrie, the first recipient of the Daphne Zepos Teaching Award, on a visual journey through the Basque Country of Spain with modern day shepherds of the region’s cheesemaking tradition. In her contador, or “telling room,” she explores the traditions of Basque sheepherding and cheesemaking, the primacy of Basque storytelling, and the families and communities bound together by both.

 

Application Season is Open!

Apply Now

The 2014 award season is here. All cheesemongers are welcome!  If you are a cheesemonger or love a cheesemonger we’re talking to you. All you need is a vision for learning and teaching about your craft.

Apply by May 31, 2014 for the $5,000 award to travel abroad and learn about cheese. Find out more and get an application packet at here.

What about last year’s winner?

Jess Perrie Photo Shoot #6

Jess Perrie is going to Basque country in Spain this April to study cheesemaking with her $5,000 award. She’ll return to teach what she learned at the American Cheese Society Conference this summer in Sacramento.

Donate now

We’ve raised over $150,000 of our $250,000 goal.  We’re still fundraising for the endowment that funds the award.

Thanks for your support!

Mo Frechette

President

Daphne Zepos Teaching Award

We Have a Winner!

We’re totally excited to announce that
Jess Perrie is the first ever
Daphne Zepos Teaching Award Winner 2013!

Jess Excited

Jess has an undergraduate degree in organic chemistry and a master’s in cheese chemistry. She’s been a cheesemaker at Silver Moon Creamery in Maine and Drake Family Farms in Utah. She’s worked on bovine health analysis on farms in Tanzania and Maine. Today she helps develop and wholesale cheese for Beehive Cheese Company in Uintah, Utah.

Jess receives $5,000 to travel to Spain to learn about Basque cheesemaking. Follow her on Twitter @jessrperrie and look for Jess’s learnings on Basque cheesemaking at the American Cheese Society conference in 2014—where we’ll announce next year’s winner!

Read her full vision here:

Jess Perrie Vision for Daphne Zepos Teaching Award

Shepherd (n): A person who protects, guides, or watches carefully over something

Daphne Zepos was a shepherd. She was a protector of tradition and a guide for professionals. I recall meeting her at my first ACS conference. In a moment of awe and speechlessness I blurted out the first thing that came to mind. “I love your shoes!” I did really like her shoes, but that wasn’t how I imagined our first meeting. Two years later I had an opportunity to step into her shoes and become a shepherd as well.

In 2013, I was the first recipient of the Daphne Zepos Teaching Award. Her endowment provided me, and the cheese community, the opportunity to advance and grow.  I accepted the role of a shepherd; my purpose to protect and guide.   Once I accepted the award, I thought about how Daphne would approach my journey. Personally, I needed to make a connection between the place I live and cheese.  In an area that is not considered to have an abundance of American artisan cheese, I wanted to draw attention to the potential of creating a product that embodies its taste of place.

Spanish Basque heritage is woven into the fabric of the American West, a place that I have called home since 2006. Roughly 57,000 Basque immigrants live in the western states, with 15,000 settling in Idaho alone. This large demographic is a result of a peak in immigration following the California Gold Rush during the 1860s. In lieu of mining, Basque-Americans raised sheep in the open lands of Oregon and southern Idaho, and by 1910, they spread into the western open-range. Basque Americans were shepherds, caring for their flocks and practicing transhumance.  Conditions in this area proved quite suitable for the Basque tradition, and their practice of sheepherding was passed down through generations. The roots of Basque heritage guided my application vision when first applying for the DZTA Scholarship.  I wanted to explore the connection between Spanish Basque tradition and the American West.

After accepting the DZTA Scholarship, I travelled to Spain to examine Basque cheese, heritage and landscape. With 4,000 years of cheesemaking tradition, the Basque region of Spain was the perfect place to understand their methods and its application to the Western United States. Cheese is an important staple in their diet and transhumance is a way of life in this agricultural society. I remember talking to a cheesemaker in San Sebastian while walking his pastures. “Big farms don’t make cheese like we do in Basque country because sheep eat grains and they’re more stressed, so the milk is weak. My sheep live peaceful lives”. His comments stuck with me. And when I tasted his craft, Idiazabal, his sheep’s peaceful days came to life in a full, balanced blend of hazelnuts, smoke and butter.

I returned from Spain with the objective to communicate the roots of Basque transhumance and artisan cheesemaking to the turophiles and caseophiles of the American West. I taught the principles of traditional cheesemaking, aging and sustainable utilization of the local environment through mantras like “peaceful sheep create peaceful cheeses”.  Idaho, home of the largest Basque American population, is the third largest cheese producing state in the country. It was important for me to reconnect this area, which pushes out thousands of pounds of industrial cheese, with its Basque cheesemaking roots. Through my teachings, I’ve inspired the notion that excellent cheesemaking is achievable in the dry, brutally hot climate of the American West if you work with the strengths of the environment, not manipulate it to fit your idea of cheesemaking. It’s important to protect and preserve the connection we have through sustainable, traditional methods. Sharing traditions keeps them alive. As a result of my teachings, flavorful, nutritional and creative cheeses from the American West have immerged using Basque principles.

Through her endowment, Daphne continued to be a protective, guiding force in the cheese industry. At the end of my Spanish journey, I came home a shepherd, with greater knowledge of land and tradition, in addition to a fabulous new pair of shoes. Thank you Daphne.

Mo Frechette
President, Daphne Zepos Teaching Award

We’re over halfway to our $250,000 fundraising goal. We still welcome tax-deductible personal donations at our FirstGiving website.